Adios amigo! : the best of Mexico
After over three months, 5,900 miles (5,900 speed bumps), an estimated 200 tacos and God knows how many nights’ sleeps disrupted by fire crackers, finally, we have bid Mexico farewell. Our heads are full of brilliant scenes and our hearts are brimming with affection for a country that is innovative, hard-working, generous and always down for a party.
We’ve compiled a list of our top twelve favorite things about our time in Mexico. Here goes:
1. The folk - jovial, inclusive and determinedly positive
There are far too many occasions to recount when we were met by Mexican’s good will. The time we missed the bus in rural Urique, at the bottom of the Copper Canyon, and we either had to hike a few thousand feet up the snaking, slim dirt road, or wait for the bus the following day - neither of which came to pass. We struck gold and were taken in by Omar and Claudia, kind strangers who offered us a free ride to the next village (a three-hour drive away), snacks and marital encouragement to boot. When we tried to repay them by buying groceries at their shop, they threw in a bottle of tequila, for free. There was Rudy, our ever-positive, monk-minded AirBnB host in Mexico City, who coaxed us out of our cloud of grief following the US elections, took us out for delicious food, margaritas and lively companionship. Later on, he extended his home for us, for free.
2. Tacos - El Fuerte style
The landlocked town of El Fuerte is the fabled home of the masked hero, Zorro, but in truth remains in our memory for its exceptional street side tacos. Carnitas (pork) and res (beef), grilled on the fire, served with caramelized onions and so generously laden that they come served on a bed of two tortillas, accompanied by piles of cucumber and three kinds of salsa -- all for a whopping $0.50 each.
3. Oaxaca surf spot - the wave of dreams
A no-name beach will forever be recalled for its glorious point break, where Tim and I first experienced the facile mystery of surfing. And indeed we experienced this joy with our newfound Aussie friends, Harry and Dylan, who can serve to verify it wasn’t all a dream.
4. Palenque - Ancient history meets exquisite bush
Besides the magnificent 1600 year old Mayan ruins shrouded in the encroaching jungle, we discovered many beautiful species of butterflies, birds (including mating parrots), iguanas and howler monkeys.
5. Santa Rita hot springs - solo moonlit swims
Another gem in southern Baja that we had all to ourselves, this stunning natural hot spring bubbled up alongside a clear, cool river. Here we swung in the hammock under a humungous fig tree, sampled a nearby pop-up restaurant, and alternated between the hot and cold waters under a sparkling starlit sky.
6. Mexicans and their music - decidedly sentimental but pretty cool
We just happened to be staying one block from the Zocalo (the central square in Mexico City) when arguably Mexico’s biggest pop star - Alejandro Fernandez - put on a free concert. There must have been at least 100,000 fans, and every one of them seemed to know the words to each song.
7. The pastries - exquisite baked goods in unlikely places
San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas will be remembered for many great little cafes, bars and restaurants but no one taste in Mexico topped the apple danish we discovered in a nondescript, rustic backstreet bakery. We walked about half a block down the road before we devoured it, then promptly turned around and went back for one more, or two.
8. San Javier in central Baja - historic monastery, off the beaten track
This town with its cobbled streets and its perfectly preserved 350-year-old monastery looks like it was designed for a movie set - it seems too good to be true. After bathing in a perfect little stream on the outskirts of town, we had the audacity to camp in the monastery’s courtyard, where we sipped margaritas with our new-found Moroccan friends and indulged in shrimp ceviche.
9. Rug/carpet shopping in Teotitlan de Valle, Oaxaca - "hecho in Mexico"
We had heard of Oaxaca’s textiles and handicrafts, but maybe didn’t expect such fine quality at such unbelievable prices. Woolen rugs and carpets that take 6 weeks to make, sell for less than US$100. We learned how to comb wool, watched as it was spun, got our hands all colorful with some natural dyes and looked on in awe as a lady wove a rug on a gigantic loom, using both hands, both feet and a complete concentration. (Needless to say six rugs are crammed into every corner and crevice in our car).
10. El Aguacero - another understated gem
We saw many wonderful waterfalls in Mexico, but nothing beat camping at the base of El Aguacero, deep in a river canyon. Yet again, we had it all to ourselves. Skinny dipping was a given. We made a campfire in the river sand and listened to hundreds of parrots come to roost in the canopy above the falls.
11. Butterflies - mariposas utterly everywhere
There are more than 1000 species of butterflies in Mexico and we saw them nearly everywhere we went, from the hot, humid beaches, to 3200m above sea level. Every color and design you can imagine.
12. The friendliest street dogs in the world - wherever you go, you'll always have an amigo in Mexico
These straathondjies (street dogs) were not only friendly and playful, but often took it upon themselves to be our guide - or at least accompany us on our many on-foot explorations. We nearly adopted one or two.
